Berkeley Backyard Bird Blog: Birdlicious Beauty Abounds in "Badlands" Landscape of Sibley Volcanic Regional Preserve

Marker identifying geologic formation on self-guided tour

In the hills above Oakland, a geologic wonderland and nature lover's delight awaits in a unique East Bay Regional Park District land holding with a blasted history:

Red rock outcroppings at Sibley Volcanic Regional Preserve

Sibley Volcanic Regional Preserve

Sibley's rugged volcanic and human-shaped landscape

A gouged out ridge system on the mend after decades of quarrying activity, Sibley looks like a land tortured not only by the "hand of man" but by Mother Nature's ravaging forces. A 10,000,000 year old volcano, Round Top Peak, has eroded and been laid bare, tilted on its side eons ago by shifting fault lines and crushing pressure to expose ancient bedrock.

Eroded red cliffs give the impression of being in the desert Southwest

Sibley's protruding boulders, rocky bluffs and steep scree slopes give the place a veritable red rock desert look and feel. As for the birds and animals, Sibley's biodiverse ecosystem provides safe haven in a rugged nature refuge abutting a large metro area.

Finch in bold colors

What more could our urban

nonhuman animal friends ask for.

White-crowned Sparrow gorging on seeds

A car-free (and carefree) approach to Sibley requires no small effort grinding up steep Claremont Canyon Road on a hard tail mountain bike. Along the way, the birding is fantastic at Claremont Canyon Preserve, perfect for a breather before tackling the short but wicked 1000 foot stretch to crest at Grizzly Peak and Fish Ranch Roads.

Lush forest along stream provides food and shelter for birds and wildlife

From there, it's zoom zoom down to the Old Tunnel Road entrance in a fairly unfamiliar area. The main Skyline entrance to the park is about a mile up the gorge trail, with a final leg to choice viewing spots with interesting geology, labyrinths, and poppy painted hills.

Blasted out quarry pit today looking like a meteor crater

I'm hoping to see the magical Black-throated Gray Warbler again on the eastern flanks of the park's large hills. Why I think this whimsical little creature will appear in my life for a few brief moments, when I know I'll never see the bird again, utterly captures the marvelous sense of "I must do it anyway" futility that defines the hopeful wishing and optimistic pursuit of the quixotic birder.

Black-throated Gray Warbler showed himself to me one day

Against all odds,

Nec Aspira Terrent:

Difficulties Be Damned!

Round Top Creek (like any creek) always charms and enchants, even in low flow

Suddenly, I'm aware of all the "bird energy" emanating from the brush and copse, in the canopy and hillside and high above. Instantly enthralled, I pass through the gate onto Skyline Trail, following the gentle course of unpretentious Round Top Creek, on first glance one of those nothing little piss-ass ditches of a gully crick.

Postcard perfect vista of Sibley hills and Mount Diablo

But on more intimate communion soon reveals her true hidden nature of small miracles, subtle charms and nuanced beauty. Never fails.

Mesmerizing beauty easy to find along Round Top Creek

No particular hurry, no agenda today, except to spot some birds in the lush sylvan surroundings. Exhausted though I am from a recent bout of something, I persevere, determined to do justice exploring this "new" territory in my back yard. In the process, expending reserves of energy by needlessly bushwhacking up a bone dry drainage and stumbling around down on the creek.

Round Top Trail follows the creek through dense foliage and past beautiful trees

My every step is tuned to miniature, barely spotted movement in the trees and bushes, immersed in a private quiet world, absorbed in a never ending quest to bear witness to a unique or rare bird. An interesting assortment soon begin making their appearance:

Scrub Jay taking it all in

Jays & Juncos /

Warblers & Bluebirds / Kinglets & Thrushes

Quails & Sparrows / Hawks & Vultures

Heading out on the trail

I'm lovin' it!

The birds are lovin' it!

Red-tailed Hawk soaring high above hills scouting for a vole

A couple of weeks ago, along Wildcat Creek, repeated high-pitched CHIT! CHIT! CHIT! of Wilson's Warblers fooled me, and they're fooling me again with their recondite ruckus in the trees edging Round Top Creek. Preferring to sing and play in heavy foliage, and being minute creatures who blend in to the point of disappearance – they're hard as heaven to spot!

Wilson's Warbler exhibiting fancy black "tam"

So when you do manage to connect on some level with this bird's secretive existence, it's a joyful revelation of "unseen birds, infinite, hidden." Still, a 2-second glimpse of a playful pair of Wilson's high in an oak tree is enough to cry triumphant, but that's it, except for their invisible presence and constant calls and responses that keep merry company.

Sibley ridge looking north toward Napa and Sonoma coast ranges

In this unseen world, I lose my self to the birds bein' birds. Their nonstop scurrying and skittering. Their obliviousness to the world and the passing of time. Their indefatigable fluttering and flittering. I'm just standing around staring into dense foliage when a flicker of movement catches my eye in distant brush.

A pair of White-tailed Kites were hunting one day

Quick to the draw with the binos, I immediately zero in on the bird's imperceptible doings and am luckily rewarded with a half-second glimpse of the very lovely (and, for me, very rarely seen) Golden-crowned Kinglet! Now darting instantaneously out of sight with the grace and mystery of a quantum particle – Ping! – the very lovely little bird is gone.

Horned Lark (sighted years ago at nearby Briones Regional Park)

I could while hours away soaking up the atmosphere of Round Top Creek, birding, photographing pretty remnant pools and bizarre sculptured trees, observing the minutiae of the natural world about me.

Steep inclines test your mettle whether on foot or bike

This stuff takes time, and patience, but now, after nearly two hours exploring the small riparian canyon, it's time to get my blood flowing again. There's more work to do. My end destination is still three miles and 500 feet of elevation away.

Rufous-sided Spotted Towhee tweeting in the brush

Back on my bike, I pedal and push up the tough single track to the Staging Area, where, for the umpteenth time, I dutifully read each informational display on the geology and natural history of the Volcanic Preserve, always mindful of and impressed by the vast scale of history and extinction unfolding and on view here.

Beautiful labyrinth with Mount Tamalpais in background

Now bumpety-bumpin' down Sibley's cobbly-ass trail, respectfully slowing down for hikers and dogs. Amazed at the popularity of the place, but I'm headin' where they ain't – to the park boundary on the back side of the whacked out cliff.

Black-throated Gray Warbler (rare bird for me)

Not a soul in sight, I can assure you. I drop my bike and hop over the fence to enter a new and different world – all mine and the birds'! It was right over there, in that tree, where I spotted the Black-throated Gray Warbler.

Round Top Trail cresting out in Springtime

I love the private "out of bounds" setting for the beautiful rolling hills, ample forest cover and open meadows edged by brush, for the extensive Diablo Range views of the 3,849 ft. mountain and Las Trampas and Rocky Ridges, rising to over 2,000 feet.

Raptor staring down on smorgasbord meadow

I kick back in silence, hoping, hoping, for the magical cameo of Black-throat, but only Anna's Hummingbird and Bewick's Wren show.

Round Top Trail cresting out in Summertime

Still appreciative. In the forest gully, it's a Hobbit's world of bent over trees with eyes and faces and gnarled roots. I rouse a pair of deer who hastily retreat up a steep ravine and out of sight. No birds in here, though, where you might expect to see a Varied Thrush or Band-tailed Pigeon maybe.

Bewick's Wren hoping to snatch a grasshopper or spider

On the climb out, I stop at the overlook. A California Quail is vocalizing loudly on a brush twig, stumping me – what an amateur! Even my non-birder wife recognizes the unique trilling of Quail! The pretty tousled bird flies out into the open for a couple of seconds, but, no fooling me now, babe, I see you!

Handsome California Quail

And then, next thing I know, a startling whoosh right over my head of a pack of fast-flying Doves bustin' butt to the safety of tall firs across the way. I remember large flocks of them from last time.

Western Bluebirds perched and observing

And, up there, who's that? Moving in closer, I espy a pair of Western Bluebirds resting in a fallen tree. Just the two of them, perching lovebirds.

Fine looking Varied Thrush came popping along

And then, in quick succession, a Varied Thrush, of all birds, and a few odd looking crashers gliding in for a landing around some bushes dropping their tiny seed pods for their benefit. (Both the plants' and birds'.)

Rufous Hummingbird (?) landing on tiny branch

I'm stumped yet again, unable to identify what kind of sparrows they are, until back home, when I learn they're Lark Sparrows, surprisingly, and representing a first ever sighting of the masqueraded bird at that!

Several Lark Sparrows appeared one day

Turns out, I've been confusing Lark Sparrows with some other kind of sparrow all this time! Now, if I can just remember what the other sparrow was. How could I possibly have confused the very distinct Lark Sparrow from another, more pedestrian, drabber one?

Mount Diablo ("Tuyshtak") viewed from Sibley "Badlands"

Nothing to muse on for too long, not with the last vestiges of Big West scenery to chew on – sacred Tuyshtak filling the sky and the purplish Ohlone range so alluring.

Lark Sparrow

And when you're dead tired from it all. One last longing lovelorn look before heading back for good, a full day of birdlicious biking and exploring.